DISSOLVING boundaries. Breaking categories to provide a new perspective. That’s the genius of fusion cooking. Seldom is the cuisine as fused as at Origin, which bills itself as bringing together traditions of the French and Thai kitchens. But the synthesis is really more complex. The specials offered on the night we dined suggest the extent of the ambitions here. Appetizers included a tasting platter with tuna tartare, Peking duck salad, a shrimp and crabmeat roll, and grilled filet mignon. Also available as starters were baby back ribs, a shrimp and scallop dumpling, or seared foie gras. These appetizers alone reflect the cuisines of four or five cultures. Among the special entrées were pan-seared squab (no longer available, regrettably, by the time we arrived at 7 p.m.), osso buco and a dish called Andaman Princes that featured pan-fried scallops and jumbo shrimp served with Korean hot pepper sauce. Another unusual choice was a lobster curry, with a 1 ¾ pound lobster served with mushrooms and Asian noodles.

   Since our last visit, Origin doubled in size, acquiring the adjacent antique store to provide much-needed space. Both sides of the restaurant offer the warmth of soft-cushioned banquettes and exposed brick walls, the interest of high, pressed-tin ceilings, and the contrasting texture of sleek, natural wood tables and lacquered screens. The hard surfaces can make for a noisy environment when the restaurant is packed. The restaurant was not crowded on the evening we visited, however, and despite an office party seated at the center row of tables, we could enjoy the sound of a stone fountain that sat flush against the wall behind us. Those waiting for tables may enjoy the relative calm of low Asian-inspired sofas in a special waiting area, separated from the main room by a large aquarium — for decorative purposes only — populated by a quintet of exotic but highly social fish.

   Despite the pressure of hosting a large party, the staff was warm and professional with our threesome, from greeting to farewell. Dishes were explained when we had questions, and they handled our wine and beer smoothly, including offering to keep the beer refrigerated during our meal. (And remembering to return it as we left.)

   W began our meal with the soup du jour, a tasty, traditional Mediterranean-style zucchini soup, enhanced by bright saffron strands on the surface. Tom ka kai ($6) brought the orchestrated balance of flavors that characterizes Thai cuisine: silky, sweet coconut milk; heady, pine-scented galangal (Thai ginger); earthy wild mushrooms; and robust chunks of chicken. The soup seemed over-salted, but lime juice added a light, bright note. The only dissonance was the lemon grass — the tasteless slivers were too fibrous to chew.

   A fine marinated, seared tuna appetizer ($10) earned good marks, although the slices of high-grade tuna were small and few in number. They were accompanied by a generous salad composed of cucumber, tomatoes and edamame. An intriguing sesame-soy-mustard dressing highlighted the flavor of the tuna.

   The entrées, too, represented several different culinary traditions. A dollop of creamy, medium-hot wasabe and a splash of sweet tamarind sauce gave zest to pan-seared Chilean sea bass ($27). It was served atop spinach and broccoli and accompanied by a little bowl of rice, specked with cumin seeds. Tender tubes of grilled squid ($18) came with grilled vegetables and sticky rice, wrapped in steamed banana leaves. On the side were three dipping sauces in rectangular ramekins nested on an oblong platter — tamarind, cilantro and chile. The meat in gra praw chicken ($13) was dry, but the dish gained points for the strong flavors in its sauce: exotic, aromatic Thai basil, medium-hot chiles and fresh, snappy green beans.

   Desserts continue the fusion theme: the menu offers crème brulée as well as sticky rice with mango, pear frangipane tart and chocolate cake soufflé. Even the tea and coffee cross borders. There’s espresso, of course, but also tisanes drawing on an Asian flavor palette: Siam blends balm, chamomile, hyssop, mint and tansy. Ruby Slipper is a mixture of blood orange and pear fruit extracts.

   That pear frangipane tart ($8) is a wine-poached pear baked with almond cream on a flaky pastry crust with a scoop of pear gelato. This proved to be the favorite at the table, with everyone first wanting “just a bite,” before our three forks began competing for morsels. The chocolate cake soufflé ($7) was warm, light and sweet, rich with the essence of chocolate. It proved an ideal partner for the espresso, while the tart paired nicely with the flowery Ruby Slipper tisane.

   Origin is notable in achieving a true fusion of disparate cuisines. Its offerings are not merely a grab bag of different raw materials or cooking methods. Our dishes embraced a wide range of ingredients, but were united by the kitchen’s style, which is marked by finesse and clear flavors, enhanced by an eclectic choice of herbs and spices. That Origin is doing something right is clear from the success of its franchise. From the original location in Somerville, it has grown, with outposts now in Basking Ridge and Morristown.